EU Scientific Panel Raises Concerns Over Safety of UV-Filter Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate in Cosmetics

SCCS Findings on EHMC’s Safety

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, also known as Octinoxate, is a UV-filter approved for use in cosmetic products under EU Regulation 1223/2009, primarily at concentrations of up to 10%. While its function is to shield the skin from harmful UVB rays, the SCCS opinion, adopted on 25 October 2024, casts doubt on its safety. The panel noted insufficient evidence to rule out potential genotoxicity and cited studies demonstrating estrogenic and anti-androgenic effects, both in vitro and in vivo.

“SCCS cannot conclude on the safety of EHMC due to insufficient data and concerns over its endocrine activity,” the committee stated.

Health and Environmental Considerations

EHMC has been used for decades in sunscreens and cosmetic formulations. Despite its widespread application, recent scientific evaluations raised alarms over its interaction with the endocrine system. Notably, EHMC is linked to hormone disruption, with clear estrogenic activity observed in lab studies. However, the SCCS assessment does not address environmental impacts, focusing solely on consumer safety.

Regulatory and Industry Implications

This assessment is part of the European Commission’s broader effort to evaluate endocrine-disrupting chemicals in cosmetics, initiated in 2018. EHMC is among 28 priority substances under review. The findings may lead to stricter regulations or alternative ingredient requirements in cosmetic formulations.

Next Steps and Industry Response

The SCCS has invited public comments on the preliminary opinion by 17 January 2025. Industry stakeholders have been urged to submit additional safety data for a comprehensive review. Meanwhile, the SCCS emphasised the importance of transparency in addressing consumer health concerns.